Yinan Zhu, general counsel for fast-fashion giant Shein, faced backlash from MPs during a parliamentary hearing after repeatedly refusing to confirm whether the company’s products contain cotton sourced from China.
Her testimony was labeled “ridiculous” and accused of “wilful ignorance” by members of the Business and Trade Committee.
Shein, which has rapidly grown into one of the world’s largest fast-fashion retailers since its founding in 2008, has been under intense scrutiny over allegations of forced labour in its supply chain, particularly concerning cotton from China’s Xinjiang region.
Research from 2020 indicated that up to 500,000 people, predominantly Uighur Muslims, were being forced to pick cotton in Xinjiang—a claim China denies.
During the hearing, Zhu confirmed that Shein’s suppliers manufacture products in China but evaded direct questions about whether these suppliers used Chinese cotton, including that from Xinjiang. She asked for permission to respond to the committee in writing.
Zhu emphasized that Shein does not own manufacturing facilities but relies on a vast network of suppliers, primarily in China, along with Turkey and Brazil.
She claimed the company adheres to the laws of the countries it operates in, requires suppliers to sign up to “robust standards,” and conducts thousands of third-party audits.
When pressed on whether Shein explicitly prohibits its suppliers from using Xinjiang cotton, Zhu requested to follow up in writing, frustrating MPs who sought immediate answers.
Charlie Maynard, a Liberal Democrat MP, criticized Zhu’s responses, highlighting the presence of cotton products on Shein’s website while noting her refusal to confirm whether they contained Chinese cotton.
“I find that completely ridiculous,” he said, accusing Shein of avoiding mention of Xinjiang altogether.
Committee chair Liam Byrne echoed the sentiment, calling Shein’s lack of transparency “horrifying” and suggesting Zhu’s reluctance to provide basic information “bordered on contempt of the committee.”
In contrast, Temu, a fellow fast-fashion retailer, provided reassurances regarding its supplier practices.
Senior legal counsel Stephen Heary stated that Temu prohibits sellers from Xinjiang from using its platform and takes labour practices “fundamentally very seriously.”
The hearing occurred amidst reports that Shein has filed initial paperwork to list shares on the London Stock Exchange, potentially valuing the company at £50 billion.
Zhu declined to answer questions about the listing, further frustrating MPs.
The controversy highlights growing concerns about ethical sourcing and forced labour in the fashion industry, particularly for brands with significant operations in China.
With scrutiny mounting, Shein’s silence on key issues risks damaging its reputation as it seeks to expand its global footprint.
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